Burgundy Wine Club
Burgundy - February
One of the highlights, if not the highlight of my recent French wine buying trip was meeting with Jean-Marc Joblot of Domaine Joblot in Givry, in the Côte Challonaise. Jean-Marc was a refreshing and not at all dogmatic winemaker, who makes deep and profound wines from an area of Burgundy that is not at all well-respected by the cognoscenti.
His wines have a core of fruit, depth, acidity, and provenance that scream that they come from a place, not a style. These are wines that can be appreciated now, but which will bring you great pleasure if you wait a year or five.
Your allocation this month is for a bottle of Domaine Joblot Givry "Clos de la Servoisine" Premier Cru, either the 2007 or 2008 vintage.
Burgundy - November
This month we present a pristine Burgundy, meant for aging: Chandon de Brialles Aloxe Corton Les Valozières 2007.
From one of the best plots on the hill of Corton, this naturally made rich, ripe wine is a jewel.
The best reds of 2007 are exactly the style of wines that most Burgundy lovers ache for. Those seeking blockbusters or wines of 2003 or 2005 type concentration and tannins should obviously not buy this vintage. On the other hand, those who love silky burgundies of great clarity and brightness that strongly reflect their terroirs will be delighted.
In his review of Chandon’s wines from the 2006 vintage, John Gilman (View From the Cellar) wrote: “This domaine is quickly becoming one of the very finest to be found anywhere in the Côte D’Or…these are great, classically styled, terroir-driven red and white Burgundies that age brilliantly, and are among the treasures to be found in the Côte de Beaune for those adventurous enough to try a few bottles."
The key to understanding Chandon de Briailles wines is to know that the Nicolaÿ family is not interested in producing blockbusters. What they seek is elegance, structure and style, and wines that will age very well. Whole bunch fermentation is typical in the reds while no new oak is used. The wines are far from showy when young and require several years to start hitting their straps. This means that early reviews are often reserved. It also means that access to the wines when they have some age (as per the offer below) is a significant bonus! The viticulture is totally natural as you can see below. In short, this is an ultra conservative, traditional Domaine that produces outstanding Burgundies of great purity, style and longevity. The Domaine has been organic since 1988, biodynamic from 2005, and has also now introduced horse ploughing to the top sites to eliminate soil compaction. This hard work in the vineyards has resulted in the wines achieving another level in quality and style over the last few years. In Burgundy, Chandon de Briailles has long been considered one of the reference Domaines; now it is even better.
Burgundy Club - September
This month we offer a bottle of Albert Morot Beaune Cent Vignes premier cru 2007.
This estate is widely considered one the finest red wine estates in Beaune. It is often the last estate to harvest demanding perfectly ripe skins and implements a severe green harvest every vintage. In 2000 the estate purchased a vibrating sorting table for an even stricter triage of the fruit that will be used. The estate now uses a pneumatic press and conducts a 3-4 day cold maceration prior to a 15-18 day fermentation in wooden vats. All of the vineyards owned are Premier Crus and include Aigrot, Bressandes, Cent Vignes, Toussaints, Teurons, Marconnets and Savigny Les Beaune Vergelesses La Bataillere.
"Bright, medium red. Very ripe aromas of black cherry, smoke and leather. Then less fruity in the mouth but nicely sweet considering the recent sulfur addition. Black cherry, smoke and mineral flavors linger on the aftertaste. "Stephen Tanzer
Burgundy - October
This month we present one of the great wines from the Cote de Nuits: Domaine d'Ardhuy Corton Hautes Mourottes Grand Cru 2005.
Your allocation is for one bottle.
Allen Meadows' Burghound: “The rich, full and nicely detailed flavors are quite firmly structured with a linear, indeed almost aggressively compact structure that is not necessarily powerful but rather focused and intense, driven more by an intense minerality than raw muscle.” 89-92 pts
Domaine d’Ardhuy is located in the heart of Burgundy, in the Côte de Nuits bordering the Côte de Beaune. It is nestled in the Clos des Langres, which has been known for the quality of its wine since the monks of the Abbaye de Cîteau planted the first vineyards in the 10 th century. Four generations of the d'Ardhuy family have owned this 45 hectare estate, the vineyards of which stretch from Puligny-Montrachet to Gevrey-Chambertin and produce some 40 different wines (mainly grands crus and premier crus-- including Corton, Clos de Vougeot, Corton Charlemagne). The average annual production of the domaine is 20,000 cases.
Burgundy Wine Club - 8th Allocation
This month, we present Domaine de Montille Volnay 1ier Cru Les Brouillards, 2006, made from organically and biodynamically farmed grapes.
About the wine: Volnay Brouillards – from younger vines – combines attractive candied black raspberry with vanilla and caramel suggestions (presumably from its roughly one-quarter new wood), gives a sweet but texturally rather spare palate impression, and displays a finish of sweet raspberry and toasted nuts.
About the Vineyard: Les Brouillards - Les Brouillards is premier cru climat of the Volnay appellation in the Cote de Beaune. Situated just a short distance to the east of Volnay village, it is right on the eastern fringes of Volnay's band of premier cru sites, on the lower slopes of the Cote d'Or escarpment.