This month, we have one of my favorite Chardonnays, a high scoring Rhône, a Blaufranckisch from Austria and a Spanish Grenache. All of these wines will knock your socks off....
First off is Héritiers de Comte Lafon Mâcon, 100% Chardonnay from one of the great producers in Burgundy. Lafon's Meursaults are legendary (and legendarily expensive!), so several years ago, the family purchased some land in the Southern Burgundy region of Macon.
Considered one of the finest winemakers in France, Dominique Lafon produces coveted white Burgundies from some of the greatest vineyards in the Cote de Beaune. Always hungry for new challenges, he purchased 14 hectares of vines in the Maconnais in 1999. He believes strongly in the potential of the region, but feels that too few vignerons have attempted to realize that potential. Thus, in the very same spirit he runs his renowned Meursault property, Dominique utilizes biodynamic viticulture, intense soil rejuvenation, tight yield control, and rigorous green harvesting to produce some of the most complex, vibrant and impressive wines the region has ever seen.
All of their wines are farmed organically and biodynamically, and go through full malo-lactic fermentation. Notably mineral and slate scented, peaches and nectarine, pineapple and melon, with a trace of nutmeg. Quite powerful and assertive, essence like with a pleasing line of intense citrus acidity and grapefruit zip.
We generally get an allocation of four-five cases of this wine for the year, but I am a diligent and persistent wine buyer (aka a nudge), and I was finally able to convince my supplier to let us have enough for the Club.
Next up is Muhr van der Niepoort Carnuntum, a Austrian collaboration between Dorli Muhr and famed port producer Dirk Niepoort. Since 2002, they've been farming one ofCarnuntum’s few traditional sites for Blaufränkisch, the Spitzerberg, where Dorli inherited and planted a small plot of vines. Dirk fell in love with theSpitzerberg and its history as well as with the potential for Blaufränkisch. The duo since purchased additional acreage. “I think it’s the most elegantvariety in the world, apart from Pinot Noir,” says Dirk of the Blaufränkisch grape.
Carnuntum is a dry red made from 100% Blaufränkisch grapes. Dirk explains that it is made “with a strong focus on not worrying about the color.” Half of the wine is made by fermenting whole bunches with the stems, and then pressing off at just the right time to get the extraction right. The other half is
made with an extended maceration on the skins of three months. The two lots have combined well to create a smooth, focused red that’s quite elegant, showing dark fruitsand a chocolatey richness.
90 points Parker: Superb purity of bitter-edged black fruits and a silken-texture yet vivacity mark this as a wine perfect for present consumption, yet there is really no telling yet how it will mature. (I have not had a chance to revisit the excellent 2004.) Pepper, herbs, and smoky pungency contribute to the complexity here just as in the 2004, but this outstanding value shows an extra measure of refinement and sheer length.
The Dorli Muhr - Dirk Niepoort collaboration about which I wrote in issue 177 has resulted in a pair of 2006 wines that definitively demonstrate – if there were still doubt – the potential of Blaufrankisch in the once-celebrated Spitzerberg , just south of the Danube and near the Hungarian frontier. It’s easy both in the glass and in the vineyard to comprehend Niepoort’s tendency to see these wines as Burgundian in inspiration. "
When I tasted the '07 Grande Veneur Clos de Sixte Lirac, I ordered as much as I could, and wasn't surprised when the pundits gave it 93 points. There's a one bottle limit on this wine.
An intense red garnet color. On the nose, aromas of red and black ripe fruit (kirsch and wild blackberry). The mouth is full, with aromas of blackcurrant liqueur and spice. Tannins are both harmonious and elegant thanks to the fleshiness of the wine. Hints of licorice and vanilla on the finish, which gives the wine length and complexity.
93 points Parker: "The 2007 Lirac Clos de Sixte is composed of 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah, and 15% Mourvedre. Abundant licorice, graphite, black cherry, and blackberry characteristics are offered in a full-bodied, deep, fleshy style. Liracs generally do not age as long as Chateauneuf du Papes, but this effort is capable of lasting 5-7 years where well-stored as it is a big, impressively endowed wine. A brilliant effort chewy, thick, and rich with good acidity in addition to outstanding depth and texture."
Bodegas Borsao's Tres Picos cuvée is always a high scoring cult wine, and we buy as much as we can every year. 100% old vine Garnacha (Grenache) from the Campo de Borja appelation.
While the 2008 has not yet been reviewed by the pundits, Parker gave last vintage a 91, and raved: "The 2007 Tres Picos Garnacha is a worthy successor to previous vintages of this always remarkable value. Sourced from low yielding vineyards on the slopes of Moncayo Mountain, the wine was aged half in stainless steel and half in French oak for 10 months. Purple-colored, it offers up sexy aromas of cedar, underbrush, mineral, and black cherry. This leads to a layered, intense, spicy, rich Garnacha with gobs of succulent fruit, excellent balance, and a plush finish. This may well be the finest Tres Picos to date. It is likely to improve in the bottle for 2-3 years but there is no reason to delay your gratification."
Year in and year out this is simply one of the most delicious wines out there, and also one of the most-requested by our customers. While big and juicy this displays great openness and complexity of flavor for under $20. A continuation of the black raspberry found on the nose is presented in a bright, tangy way backed by finely ground white pepper, dried herbs and a warm clay-like earthiness. This wine is packed with flavor and it keeps coming throughout the meaty, iron rich finish.
RECIPES
For the Mâcon: Mushroom, Goat Cheese and Duck Confit Risotto serves four
* 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
* 2 1/2 cups boiling water
* 3 cups chicken stock
* Salt and freshly ground pepper
* 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
* 1 small shallot, minced
* 1 garlic clove, minced
* 1 cup arborio rice (7 ounces)
* 4 legs of duck confit, meat removed from bones
* 1/4 cup dry white wine
* 1 small bay leaf
* 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
* 1 tablespoon mascarpone
* 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (3 ounces)
* 1 pound fresh cremini and shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
* 1 thyme sprig
* 4 ounces fresh goat cheese
In a heatproof bowl, soak the dried porcini in the boiling water until softened, 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the soaking liquid; rinse the mushrooms to remove any grit. Finely chop the porcini and reserve in a small bowl. Pour the soaking liquid into a medium saucepan, stopping before you reach the sediment at the bottom. Stir in the chicken stock and season with salt and pepper. Warm the stock over low heat.
In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil until shimmering. Add the shallot and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, 2 minutes. Add the rice, duck confit and dried porcini and stir to coat. Add the wine and bay leaf and cook until the wine has evaporated. Add about one-fourth of the warm stock and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until nearly absorbed. Continue adding the stock in batches, stirring constantly until the rice is al dente and suspended in a creamy sauce, about 20 minutes. Discard the bay leaf. Stir in the butter, mascarpone and Parmesan; season with salt and pepper and keep warm.
In a skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the fresh mushrooms and thyme and cook over high heat, stirring, until softened and golden, 8 minutes. Discard the thyme. Season the mushrooms with salt and pepper, spoon over the risotto and serve with the fresh goat cheese crumbled on top.
For the Austrian Red: Duck and Carrot Stew Serves Six
I made this dish late one night just before New Year's with leftover Goose from our Christmas dinner. Since goose is not that readily available, especially after the holidays, I have substituted duck which will work equally as well.
Duck and Stock:
* 1 whole duck
* 1 whole onion, quartered
* 2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
* 2 garlic cloves, cut in half
* 1 bay leaf
* 2 tablespoons whole black peppercorn
* 4 sprigs of parsley
* 4 sprigs of thyme
* 4 cups of light beef stock or low sodium vegetable broth
Stew:
* 1 onion, cut into medium dice
* 6 carrots, cut into medium dice
* Dash of crushed red pepper flake
* 4 garlic cloves, sliced thinly
* 3 tablespoons tomato paste
* Reserved parsley and thyme leaves
* 2 cup cooked white beans
* Reserved cooked duck meat
* 6 cups duck-beef broth
Preheat the oven to 425F.
Season the duck inside and out with salt and pepper. Place in a large roasting pan and roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Lower the heat to 325, and cook a further 60 minutes, or until done. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Pick all the meat from the duck and set aside. Place the duck carcass in a large stock pot and add the quartered onion, carrots, garlic cloves, bay leaf, peppercorns and beef stock. Remove the parsley and thyme leaves from the stems and set aside, add the stems to the pot. Add enough water to cover and bring to a boil over high heat, lower to a simmer and cook for about 2 hours, skimming off the fat every now and then. Strain the duck-beef broth through a fine mesh strainer, and set aside. Discard the solids.
Heat olive oil in a large casserole over medium heat, add the chopped onion and garlic and cook for 5 minutes or until tender, then add the carrots, and cook for about 3 minutes. Add the red pepper flake and tomato paste and cook for 5 minutes. Finely chop the parsley and thyme leaves and add to the casserole. Add the duck meat and cooked white beans to the casserole, followed by the beef-duck broth and bring to the boil. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Partially cover with a lid and reduce heat to low, simmer for 2 hours or until duck is very tender and carrots are fully cooked.
For the Garnacha: Pomegranate & Cherry Braised Pork serves six
This seasonal spicy, fruity and succulent pork dish works incredibly well with young fruity Garnacha based wines.
* 2 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds pork shoulder
salt and pepper
* 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 onion, diced
* 4 garlic cloves, halved
1 cup pomegranate juice
* 1 cup dry red wine
* 1 cup light beef stock
* 2 Navel oranges, juice with skin removed and cut into strips
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1/2 cup dried sour cherries
* 2 sprigs of thyme
* 2 bay leaves
* 1 tablespoon whole black peppercor
The night before rub the pork shoulder with olive oil and season with salt, pepper and the smoked paprika. Cover and place in the refrigerator. Remove from the fridge about 30 minutes prior to cooking.
Set the oven to 275F.
Set a large oven-proof casserole over medium heat. Heat the olive oil, then sear the pork for about 5 minutes on each side until a golden brown char forms. Add the onion and garlic cloves to the pot, and cook a few minutes until the onions soften. Add the juices, wine and stock and bring to the boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes to slightly reduce the liquids and skim and skim any fat from the top. Add the remaining ingredients, cover and transfer to the oven and cook for about 3 hours until the shoulder is very tender. Remove the meat and cherries from the pot and place on a large platter. Strain the liquid and return to the pot and reduce to a nice syrupy consistency. Pour over the pork and serve.
For the Lirac: Lamb Shoulder with Olives and Baby Potatoes serves 4-6
I love the gamey, rich, briny, deep flavors of this rustic stew. Perfect at this time of the year, it will pair beautifully with the Lirac.
* 2 tablespoons olive oil
* 4 oz. salt pork, cubed
* 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
* 2 medium cloves garlic, peeled and minced
* 2 pounds lamb shoulder cut into medium size pieces
* 1 tablespoon flour
* 2 tablespoons tomato paste
* 1 cup dry red wine
* 4 sprigs fresh thyme
* 3 sprigs fresh rosemary
* Salt and freshly ground black pepper
* 2 cups light beef stock or chicken stock
* 2 bay leaves
* 6 medium carrots, peeled, trimmed, and sliced
* 1/2 pound baby potaotes, such as fingerlings, cut into half lengthwise
* 1 cup picholine or other good French green olives
Heat the olive oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add the salt pork and cook, stirring, until golden, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add onions and garlic, and cook, stirring often, until soft, about 5 minutes.
Stir in lamb and cook until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring often, until juices thicken and flour loses its raw flavor, about 10 minutes. Add tomato paste, wine, thyme, rosemary, and salt and pepper to taste and simmer for 5 minutes.
Add the beef or chicken stock and bay leaves, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring often, until lamb is tender, about 1 hour.
About 30 minutes before lamb is finished cooking, stir in carrots, potatoes and olives. Before serving, skim any fat from liquid and remove and discard bay leaves.
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